Friday, September 7, 2012

My Last Week in Venezuela

View from my walk from town to the Foundation Grounds, Santa Elena de Uairén, 17 August 2012 

            On Friday (17 Aug), after taking the bus out of Chirikayén for the last time, Kelvis and the two ‘new’ (for me, anyway) Peace Villages volunteers, Heather (UK) and Laura S (Germany) kindly met me in Plaza Bolívar and drove my stuff to the foundation grounds for me.  Meanwhile, I chose to stay in town for most of the day so as to take advantage of my last few moments with some friends from Chirikayén.
Shortly after I hiked up to the foundation grounds later that afternoon, Kelvis drove me, Geder, Heather, and Laura S to town to celebrate la Fiesta de Santa Elena, a local, yearly festival celebrating, well, Santa Elena.  First, we stopped by Tuma Serö for some tapioca (not pudding, but wraps – see picture below) and frozen jugo de parchita (passion fruit juice) – which turned out to be the best I had in Venezuela
Tapioca mixta (not pudding, obviously, but a meat/veg wrap), Tuma Serö, Santa Elena de Uairén, 17 August 2012
Thankfully, it stopped raining by the time we finished eating, so we had a chance to walk/dance through town with the Calipso parade – a huge group of people of all ages, accompanied by a live band, meandering, shouting, and grooving through the streets of Santa Elena, bottles in hand.  It was a great time (and I was sober, by the way), but my short videos (Part 1 & Part 2) don’t really do it justice. :/
            The next morning (Saturday, 18 Aug), Manfred (the foundation’s director) and his daughter, Nilaya, led me, Heather, and Laura S on a short hike through the forest which neighbors the foundation grounds.  Following the path of the water pipeline, we eventually reached and swam in the refreshingly cold, natural pool from which the foundation’s tap water flows.  I’m so glad I finally got a chance to check out this beautiful area before leaving Venezuela (video here)!
Baby tarantulas in their huge web, forest next to the Foundation Grounds, Santa Elena de Uairén, 18 August 2012
Tarantula web (at bottom of tree), forest next to the Foundation Grounds, Santa Elena de Uairén, 18 August 2012 
Rubber tree – marked by the indigenous so that the gum drips down the tree for collection later on, forest next to the Foundation Grounds, Santa Elena de Uairén, 18 August 2012
Me (and Manfred, in the background) hiking the small river to the natural pool in the forest next to the Foundation Grounds, Santa Elena de Uairén, 18 August 2012
The natural pool where we swam in the forest next to the Foundation Grounds, Santa Elena de Uairén, 18 August 2012
Trees and vines, forest next to the Foundation Grounds, Santa Elena de Uairén, 18 August 2012 
Enormous (2.5-meter wide) tree, forest next to the Foundation Grounds, Santa Elena de Uairén, 18 August 2012 
Laura S, Manfred, and Heather crossing a ‘bridge,’ forest next to the Foundation Grounds, Santa Elena de Uairén, 18 August 2012
Groucho the cat + snake, Foundation Grounds, Santa Elena de Uairén, 18 August 2012 
(Click here for a video of bachaco ants I made that day, and here for one of the cat/snake battle…). 

That evening, Kelvis very amicably dropped me, Heather, and Laura S off at the Toros Coleados (another part of the fiesta) – basically, a rodeo wherein the object of four or five horseback riders is to grab the tail of a crazed bull.  There were no seats in the arena, so all the spectators had to perch on the fence – with one leg on each side, so as to avoid getting knocked off by the crazed horses or bulls as they rushed by.
Hamburger + Polar Light beer (just like a stone), Toros Coleados, Santa Elena de Uairén, 18 August 2012 
It may not seem like it here, but that bull was going crazy, Toros Coleados, Santa Elena de Uairén, 18 August 2012
Note how all the people are sitting on the fence into which the bull rams its head… Toros Coleados, Santa Elena de Uairén, 18 August 2012
Looks like something exploded, not sure why; guess my camera couldn’t handle all the excitement, Toros Coleados, Santa Elena de Uairén, 18 August 2012
Hats for sale, Toros Coleados, Santa Elena de Uairén, 18 August 2012 
It was an exciting, at times nerve-racking, time; plus, we got to fill our bellies with plenty of fatty ‘fair food’ – from hamburgers to donuts to tequeños con queso (fried sticks of dough filled with cheese) – it was almost like being back home in Texas.  Later that night, we brought a new volunteer, Leah (UK), to the foundation grounds, and then I returned to town with Geder and Kelvis to watch a live folk music concert (click for video excerpt).
On Sunday (19 Aug), Manfred took all us girls to a natural pool in Maurak (incidentally, the same spot where I swam on my first Sunday in Santa Elena) – which turned out to be the last time I got to swim in Venezuela. :/ 
Look familiar? Same old swimming spot in Maurak, 19 August 2012 
That night, we all made pizza together, and the next day (Mon, 20 Aug), I shared kitchen duties for the last time at the foundation (cooked lunch with Laura S).  That morning, we girls went to the Casa de Cultura (Cultural House) in town for Spanish class with Karla (apparently Ruben doesn’t teach class at the foundation anymore…), which was great fun (:.
La Casa de Cultura, Santa Elena de Uairén, 20 August 2012 
Heather, Laura S, and Leah in the local biblioteca (library), Santa Elena de Uairén, 20 August 2012  
After lunch, a largely new (for me) group of kids came to the foundation for English class and horse riding, and they returned for more of the same (plus swimming) the following morning (Tues, 21 Aug).  I was happy to find that not only was the schedule much more organized than before (at the end of June), but also, the kids were significantly better behaved.  Plus, I could communicate with them in Spanish incredibly more effectively than when I first arrived in Venezuela!
On Monday night, I taught my last English class to Kelvis, Geder, and Nilaya :(, and the next morning (Tues, 21 Aug), happened to wake up bright and early to the screams of guacharaca birds in the nearby jungle, which you can hear in this video.
            After my last full day at the foundation, Kelvis drove me, Geder, Heather, Laura S, and Leah to town for my ultimate salida.  We of course had dinner at Tuma Serö that time, enrollado mixto (mixed meat – as in, ham, beef, and chicken – pita wrap) – and then hung out at the Plaza, etc.  I had a blast, and am so happy to have spent my last night in Santa Elena with them!  Thanks again, guys!
Enrollado mixto (mixed meat – as in, ham, beef, and chicken – pita wrap), Tuma Serö, Santa Elena de Uairén, 21 August 2012
My final salida: Leah, Geder, me, Kelvis, Laura S, and Heather, Tuma Serö, Santa Elena de Uairén, 21 August 2012
            After saying goodbye to everyone on Wednesday morning (22 Aug), I took the 1 pm (24-hour) bus back to Caracas.  We had to take a detour through Los Llanos, a part of Venezuela which I hope to visit some time next year, due to a broken bridge somewhere on the normal route, which lengthened the trip by four hours or so…
            However, along the way, I soaked in the views, was extremely comfortable, and met many friendly people, including someone related to most of my friends back in Chirikayén!
View of Chirikayén Tepui from the road on the way back to Caracas, 22 August 2012
10 pm dinner: cachapa with cheese and coca cola, SintilloVenezuela, 22 August 2012 
Thursday brunch: broasted chicken with black beans, salad, rice, tejada (plantain slice), on the way back to Caracas, 23 August 2012
Typical Chávez (Corazón de mi Patria – “Heart of my Fatherland”) poster on the way back to Caracas, San Juan de Morros, Guárico State, 23 August 2012 
View from the road on the way back to Caracas, San Juan de Morros, Guárico State, 23 August 2012 
View from the road on the way back to Caracas, La VictoriaAragua State, 23 August 2012 
After arriving in Caracas around 3:30 on Thursday afternoon (23 Aug), I stopped by the Centro Comercial El Recreo (a mall – I basically rode the escalators then left) and then wandered around Avenida Sabana Grande (Grand Savannah Avenue).  The latter – a large shopping area blocked off to auto traffic – was packed with pedestrians and popcorn vendors – quite the contrast to the toddler-trodden dirt roads of Chirikayén.
Entering Caracas, 23 August 2012
Back in the big city, Caracas, 23 August 2012
Caracas, 23 August 2012
Leaving South America…flight from Venezuela to Trinidad, 24 August 2012
Entering Trinidad, 24 August 2012
Leaving Trinidad, 24 August 2012
Leaving Trinidad, 24 August 2012
Flight from Trinidad to Florida, 24 August 2012
Flight from Trinidad to Florida, 24 August 2012
Entering the United States…home, sweet home? Fort LauderdaleFL (where I then stayed overnight…), 24 August 2012
…Rather than closing with a juicy bit of info about my next entry so as to entice you to check back next Friday, now I have to say goodbye – for the time being.  Now that I’ve returned to the States, I am on blog-hiatus, and back to writing articles for Courthouse News Service, until I return to Venezuela/visit other countries in the same region some time in the near future... 
Second-to-last flight! from Fort LauderdaleFL to CharlotteNC, 25 August 2012 
Charlotte Douglas International AirportCharlotteNC, 25 August 2012 
And so, to all my readers, thank you for reading my blog over the past three months – I hope you’ve enjoyed it; I’ve definitely enjoyed writing it!  If you have any questions about my experience with Peace Villages, my stay in Chirikayén, or my time in Venezuela in general, please feel free to leave me a comment or two.  Thanks again and take care!  ¡Chau!

Friday, August 31, 2012

My Last Few Days in Chirikayén


Maltín, a malt drink (which I really didn’t like…) that’s very popular in Venezuela, Chirikayén, 9 August 2012
            Although I’ve moved back to the States now, I’ve still got plenty of stories to share with you about my last couple of weeks in Venezuela.  …
Most of my host family, eating barbecued chicken and rice for lunch: Left: Lucy (Sandra’s older sister), Solange (Sandra and Lucy’s little sister), Silvio (Sandra’s son); Right: Angi (Lucy’s daughter) and Sandra (my host mother) holding her daughter, Alexandra, Chirikayén, 9 August 2012
            After returning from my Chirikayén Tepui trek on Wednesday night (8 Aug), I took it easy on Thursday (9 Aug), hanging out with Sandra and the kids.  Lucy (Sandra’s older sister) was there too, since, once Sandra returned from the hospital in Santa Elena, Lucy had to take over all the cooking duties.  Why?  Many Pemón believe that during the three months after a woman gives birth, the food she cooks will make those who eat it sick to their stomachs, so Sandra won’t be cooking for a while…
            On Friday (10 Aug), I spent most of the day in Santa Elena as usual, and just before heading out to Chirikayén (for the last time!), our taxi driver ran over my feet with his SUV.  Thankfully, no major damage was done.  You’d think that since I was standing next to the car, arranging my things in the backseat, he would’ve waited to roll forward, but no…
Gold (from the Chirikayén mine) to be sold in Santa Elena, Plaza Bolívar, Santa Elena de Uairén, 10 August 2012
A diamond (from the Chirikayén mine) to be sold in Santa Elena, Plaza Bolívar, Santa Elena de Uairén, 10 August 2012
Huge traditional Venezuelan (criolla, not indigenous) lunch at Tuma Serö – black beans, grilled chicken, rice, tejadas (plaintains), yuca, salad, and pasta, Santa Elena de Uairén, 10 August 2012
One of the artisans who sells his jewelry in Plaza Bolívar, Santa Elena de Uairén, 10 August 2012
            The next day (Saturday, 11 Aug), I washed my clothes in the Remak River for the last time.  On both Saturday and Sunday (11-12 Aug), I weaved bracelets and watched the Olympics at Maira’s, and on Sunday afternoon, I made domplin asado with Lucy, as well as jugo de toronja (toronja (sour citrus fruit) juice), from the fruit Maira and I picked at Maria Josefina’s house several days before.
Washing my clothes in the Remak River for the last time, Chirikayén, 11 August 2012
Domplin asado (grilled “dumplings” – really soft flat bread) I made, Chirikayén, 12 August 2012
Making jugo de toronja (toronja (sour citrus fruit) juice), from the fruit Maira and I picked at Maria Josefina’s house several days before, Chirikayén, 12 August 2012
            On Monday (13 Aug), Omar had to head to Paují, another indigenous community, to work with his brother, so on Sunday night, we said our goodbyes.  Later on, he surprised me with a pincho (meat kebob), which was delivered to my door around dinner time – a very nice farewell gift!
Dinner: jugo de toronja (toronja (sour citrus fruit) juice), arepas with quesomargarina, tomateaguacate (avocado), and the pincho (meat kebob) Omar bought me, Chirikayén, 12 August 2012
Maira and I had planned to go to her conuco on Monday, but since she had a fever on Sunday, we decided to go Tuesday instead.  As it turns out, she ended up going without me on Monday, but fortunately, I visited her there on Tuesday and Thursday (14 and 16 Aug).
Sandra (my host mother) and her sister Lucy demonstrating how to use a crawá (indigenous wooden ladle) to serve the tuma we made together, Chirikayén, 13 August 2012
A helicopter flying over Chirikayén, 13 August 2012 
Sunset, Chirikayén, 13 August 2012
At about 7 on Tuesday morning, I hiked for an hour and a half to Maira’s conuco with her niece, nephew, and sister – Adalgiza, Abner, and Felicia, respectively.  After eating tuma and casabe, we walked a few minutes from the camping area to the actual yuca field to uproot and haul yuca in akai (traditional backpacks) to the camp. 
Brunch: casabe and tuma (made with aurosá (similar to spinach)) at camp in Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 14 August 2012 
A tree stump covered in hongo (fungus) on the way to the yuca field from camp in Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 14 August 2012
Douglas (Maira’s husband) uprooting yuca in Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 14 August 2012
Maira and her daughter, nieces, and nephew gathering yuca in her conuco, using akai (traditional backpacks), Chirikayén, 14 August 2012
Then, we passed the afternoon peeling yuca, and at one point, Douglas (Maira’s husband) and some of the children and I walked up the road a bit to pick pineapples.  Though Maira and others camped at the conuco from Monday to Thursday, I walked back to the community with her nephew/Geder’s brother Abner at the end of the day on both Tuesday and Thursday.
Douglas and Maira hauling yuca in her conuco, using akai (traditional backpacks), Chirikayén, 14 August 2012
Freshly-picked yuca amarga (bitter yucca), Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 14 August 2012
Adalgiza (Maira’s niece) cleaning freshly-peeled yuca in Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 14 August 2012
Freshly-peeled and washed yuca amarga (bitter yucca), Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 14 August 2012
Douglas and the kids picking pineapples near Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 14 August 2012
View from the way back from pineapple-picking near Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 14 August 2012  
View from the way back from pineapple-picking near Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 14 August 2012
The kids swimming in the river near Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 14 August 2012
View from the way back to town from Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 14 August 2012  
I wanted to return Wednesday morning (15 Aug), but had to finish up a few things before leaving Chirikayén that upcoming Friday.  On Thursday (16 Aug), however, I walked back to the conuco with Abner and helped Maira with the last stage of making casabe – hanging it out to dry.  (For a full description of the casabe-making process, click here). 
Sunset, Chirikayén, 15 August 2012
Sunrise, Chirikayén, 16 August 2012
A butterfly Abner and I found on the road to Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 16 August 2012  
Maira and her work!  80-something tortas de casabe at her conuco, Chirikayén, 16 August 2012
Helping Maira hang casabe out to dry at her conuco, Chirikayén, 16 August 2012  
I tried casabe with sugar for the first time that day after eating rice, chicken, tuma, and casabe for brunch.  After returning home, I packed my bags, but unfortunately, Sandra had to cancel my despedida (farewell get-together) because all the bodegas had run out of eggs (for torta or quesillo – Venezuelan desserts) and chicken (for tuma).
Me, Adri, and Maira eating tuma and casabe at her conuco, Chirikayén, 16 August 2012
View from the way back to town from Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 16 August 2012  
Abner and a huge bachaco (red worker ant) hill, on the way back to town from Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 16 August 2012
Abner and the kids on the way back to town from Maira’s conuco, Chirikayén, 16 August 2012
My last sunset in Chirikayén, 16 August 2012
Therefore, my last night in Chirikayén was fairly uneventful – after eating a normal dinner of domplin asado at my host family’s, I stopped by Maira’s to say goodbye, and then the electricity cut out early at 8:50.  Nonetheless, I truly enjoyed my last few moments with Chirikayénites, many of whom had become a second family to me, and I was very sad to leave the next day.  :/
In my next (and final) post, I’ll tell you all about my exciting last few days in Venezuela, my home away from home.  ¡Hasta la próxima! (Until next time!)